Purani Dilli built the taste, the rest keeps it going. Mughlai lanes, chaat corners, and the institutions locals still swear by. Where a local sends you, not the food-court version.
Since 1913, in the lanes behind Jama Masjid. The mutton korma and burra are the point. Ignore the crowds, order big.
Karim's neighbour and honest rival. The nihari with sheermal is the quiet pick. Same lane, shorter wait, no drop-off.
Where butter chicken and dal makhani were invented, full stop. Touristy now, still the original. Order both.
Pandara Road's reliable star since 1959. Butter chicken and the dal done right, no surprises, always packed.
A whole lane frying stuffed parathas since the 1870s. Point at one, eat it hot with the pickles. Pure Old Delhi.
The chole bhature Delhi argues about, since 1950. Two fat bhature, that spiced chole, before noon or they run out.
A tiny counter that's done two things since 1940: dahi bhalle and aloo tikki. Both perfect. Eat standing, no seats.
At the Dariba corner since 1884. Fat jalebis fried in desi ghee, handed over warm. Split one, you'll still want more.
The stuffed-fruit kulfi is a Delhi summer rite: a whole frozen mango, filled with kulfi. Worth the detour.
A 1926 deli counter that never modernised, thank god. Chicken patties, old-school pastries. Get a boxful to go.
The state canteen with a fiery unlimited Andhra thali, best value in Delhi. Queue at lunch, worth every minute.
The mutton tikka roll wrapped in warm rumali that Khan Market grew up on. Grab it, eat it walking, pay cash.
The kathi kebab roll, invented here, still the CP standby. Flaky paratha, egg, spiced mutton. Fast and right.
The tikka joint South Delhi runs on. Smoky chicken tikka and fish fry, packed in foil. No frills, all flavour.
The one splurge, and it earns it. Dal Bukhara slow-cooked overnight, the raan for the table. Book well ahead.